By JULIA DELLA CROCE
Weâ€™ve come a long way since the days when Americans thought Italian cuisine meant spaghetti or ziti in rivers of â€œmarinaraâ€ set on red-chequered tablecloths. Even if mistaken notions persist about what genuine Italian cooking really is, weâ€™ve embraced every new pasta that has come our way (think squid-ink fettuccine or agnolotti al plin), and weâ€™ve become more sauce savvy, too. Amatriciana and puttanesca are commonplace in restaurant and home kitchens alike, and â€œcarbonaraâ€ is a household word from New York to Nebraska. Arrabbiata, cacio e pepe, aglio e olio â€“ you name it, we love them all.
Nevertheless, the canon of pasta-and-sauce pairings has remained something of a mystery outside the borders of Italy. The immense number of different shapes is daunting to us foreigners; out of sheer exasperation, we find ourselves asking, â€œWhy so many?â€ There are â€œpriestsâ€™ hats,â€ â€œwolvesâ€™ eyesâ€ and â€œhorsesâ€™ teeth,â€ â€œchurch bells,â€ â€œlittle lovesâ€ and â€œkiss catchers.â€ It is not enough to make pasta bows (farfalle); there must also be little bows (farfallette) and much bigger bows (farfalloni). There are not only small reeds called cannelle, but also very small reeds, large smooth reeds and large grooved reeds. Some shapes have more than one name (penne lisce and mostaccioli, for example, are one and the same).
The roots of this maccheroni madness go back to the fierce rivalry among dried-pasta manufacturers in 19th century Naples, where the southern Italian pasta industry mushroomed during the Industrial Revolution. At one point about 1,500 pastifici competed for business, engaging in price wars or introducing ever-newer products to lure customers to their brand. But probably more than anything, the seemingly endless variations reflect the expansive nature of the Italian people â€“ their imagination and love of show.
The American versus the Italian approach
Americans are characteristically laissez-faire about pairing rules. James Beard once told me that he saw no reason to be bound by tradition; he believed we ought to be inventive with pasta recipes. By contrast, the Italians are always mindful of the pairing principles derived from a long history of pasta eating. Over the centuries, tried-and-true guidelines have emerged, based primarily on the ingredients in the dough and the architecture of each resulting shape â€“ hard wheat or soft wheat, dried pasta or fresh, long or short, smooth or ridged. Various pastas absorb and combine with sauces in different ways depending on their wall thickness, density and structure.
Meanwhile, sauces â€“ condimenti, as the Italians call them â€“ have inherent texture, flavour and colour attributes. The foundation of most is olive oil or butter, given body with tomato purÃ©e, meat, vegetables and/or cheese. The art of pairing can probably best be explained by herding all the unruly strands and little shapes into three separate tribes, as it were â€“ each with their own swimming pools or sauces. (Here we will concern ourselves with dried pasta alone.)
Golden rules for pairing dried pasta and sauces
â€“ Lightweight: Capelli dâ€™angelo (â€œangel hairâ€), cappellini (â€œfine hairâ€), vermicelli (â€œlittle wormsâ€), fedelini (â€œvery fine noodlesâ€): Use all in broths or broth-based soups. The latter two, being thicker, are suitable for light, sieved tomato sauces, but none of these long, lightweight pastas can support dense cream-based or meat sauces.
â€“ Medium-weight: Spaghetti, spaghettini, spaghetti alla chitarra (â€œguitar-string spaghettiâ€), mezze linguine (â€œhalf linguineâ€): This group is sturdy enough for olive-oil sauces such as aglio e olio as well as tomato- or brothy seafood-based sauces that easily slip along the surface.
â€“ Heavyweight: Linguine (â€œlong tongues,â€ aka bavette), perciatelli, bucatini, fusilli bucati lunghi (â€œlong hollow coilsâ€): Because these shapes have more weight than those in the previous subcategories, they will all support a relatively unctuous sauce such as basil pesto, but they are also sprightly enough to consort with sauces suited to medium-weight long pasta. By tradition, linguine is inexplicably inseparable from fish or shellfish sauces, though fluid tomato sauces make a pleasant match, too.
The tubular shapes have relatively thick walls, which make them sturdy enough to support not only chunky tomato-based sauces with or without meat, as well as cheese or cream preparations. (Diagonal cuts are especially handy in this regard.) Despite the versatility of these shapes, the size of the ingredients in accompanying sauces should be kept in mind. For example, wide tubular cuts are big enough to trap meat bits and vegetable chunks (think rigatoni with broccoli and anchovies); not so in the case of petite variants such as pennette (â€œlittle quillsâ€). Tubular shapes are also ideal for baked dishes because they hold their shape and firmness during a second cooking in the oven.
â€“ Anelli (â€œringsâ€), ditaloni (â€œthimblesâ€): Ideal for pasta e fagioli and other bean soups because the ring shape nests cannellini beans, lentils and such.
â€“ Penne (â€œquillsâ€), penne rigate (â€œridged quillsâ€), penne lisce (â€œsmooth quillsâ€), pennette, rigatoni: These go with olive oil- or butter-based vegetable, meat and tomato sauces and also with cream-based concoctions. Olive oil-based sauces stick to ridged shapes better than to smooth ones. The slimmer pennette are best matched with light vegetable or tomato sauces containing, say, wild mushrooms or eggplant (though traditionalists wouldnâ€™t dream of making pasta alla Norma with anything but spaghetti).
â€“ Farfalle (â€œbutterfliesâ€): Their delicate â€œwingspanâ€ suits them to light sauces based on either olive oil or butter, as long as there are no big obstacles in their flight path.
â€“ Fusilli, fusilli corti (â€œshort fusilliâ€), tortiglioni (hollow â€œspiralsâ€), radiatori (â€œradiatorsâ€), gemelli (â€œtwinsâ€) and various twists: Shapes like these are designed to trap cheese and ricotta sauces or unctuous nut sauces, such as pestos. RagÃ¹ and other meat sauces love to collect in their coils, too.
â€“ Strozzapreti (â€œpriest stranglersâ€): These handmade dried forms call for tomato, meat and sausage sauces.
â€“ Conchiglie (â€œshellsâ€), riccioli (â€œcurlsâ€), ruote (â€œwheelsâ€), lumache (â€œsnailsâ€): Short and stubby shapes such as these work well with hearty sauces featuring meat, vegetables, cheese or cream. â€“ Reuters/Zester Daily