Old-school contouringâ€”the technique of using shading to enhance and define facial featuresâ€”used to mean layers upon layers of dark, dramatic make-up, harsh angles, and pretty much everything worn by the cast of The Rocky Horror Picture Show.
Erase those images from your mind.The twenty-first century version is all about enhancing cheekbones, slimming your face, and tricking the eye in a believable way. Simply put: “It’s no longer about carving a line into your cheek,” says make-up artist Ashleigh Ciucci.
1. GET THE RIGHT PRODUCTS
You only need two: a matte shading cream or powder and a highlighter. Start with a cream because you can pat it on with your fingers and it has a natural finish that doesn’t look like make-up, orÂ choose a sheer formula like powder for a softer contour, whichever you’re comfortable with.
While the formula you use is up to you, make sure you’re consistent. That means using all cream or all powder productsâ€”from your foundation to your blush. Layering different textures can cause a caked-on effect, and it won’t blend as seamlessly,according to Allure magazine.
2. CONSIDERÂ YOUR SKIN TONE
Anything that stands out too much against skin is going to look obvious. If you’re fair, use a contouring cream or powder that’s one shade darker than your skin tone. In keeping with the idea of shadows, look for formulas with a greyish cast and stay away from anything too red or orange, like most bronzers.
3. LOSE THE GLITTER
Highlighter should be almost the colour of your skin, with just a hint of shine. Avoid anything with noticeable sparkles, which can look chalky or just plain unnatural. Instead,work with liquid highlighter formulas, which mimic your skin’s texture so it just looks more believable. If you have fair skin, a pearly shade works well.
4. KNOW WHERE TO SHADE
Want instant cheekbones? Suck in your cheeks,it’s the best way to find the hollows. Then, working from the tops of the hollows inward, shade alongâ€”and just beneathâ€”the sunken area, stopping about an inch from the corner of your mouth, then blend well with your finger or a sponge.
To slim your nose, blend two lines of the shading cream or powder from the start of your brows down the sides of the bridge of your nose with a small shadow brush.
5. HIGHLIGHT STRATEGICALLY
Highlighting is especially important when you’re contouring because it brings the light back into your face. But once again, you don’t want to overdo it.
Instead,lightly coat your pointer, middle, and ring fingers with highlighter, and then rub them against the same fingers on the other hand. Tap your fingers up and down your cheekbones, and then dab whatever’s left over on your brow bones, the center of your chin, and just one tap on the tip of your nose.
6. KNOW YOUR FACE SHAPE
Not all of the rules of highlighting and contouring are universal; it’s also important to keep your face shape in mind. If you have a round face, contouring under your cheekbones can make it appear smaller. But if you have a narrow face, it could make it look even longer. Instead, shade along the top of the forehead and a bit on the chin.This technique softens angular features and creates a more rounded effect.MYNEWSHUB